Sewing & Serging
Understanding the basics from a guy still learning the basics
What is sewing?
The purpose of sewing & serging is to join fabric pieces cut from a pattern together in a way that makes something useful. Seams are the result of stitches permanently joining together fabric pieces. Buttons, velcro, and zippers are notions used to join fabrics together that can be undone. These notions are attached to fabric in very specific ways.
Personal Experience
Sewing is always a struggle. I find it super annoying that a highly technical person like myself tends to fail on even the most basic sewing tasks. The patterns are hard to read and vague on the critical areas. It is like there are secret instructions that are common knowledge to everyone but me.
My basic sewing training is from a middle school sewing class. I have a handle on standard construction stitches like straight line, zig zag, and bar tack for a sewing machine and the overlock stitch on the serger. These simple stitiches are primarily used for construction.
I have managed to destroy a few cheap sewing machines. My latest sewing machine is a commerical model that my mom gave me because she said it was too fast. I figured out how to adjust the pedal and offered it back to her; but, she had already bought a really nice Huskavarna. She insisted that I keep it and make the most of it. It took some time to get comfortable with this machine. I find myself making bobins all the time; which, is why I prefer serging whenever possible. Plus, the overlock seam is crazy strong.
Favorite Materials
My favorite materials are:
- Cotton: lays down well. cuts easy. pins easy.
- Denim: Elastic in the material can cause feed dog issues on the sewing machine. Serger loves denim.
- Canvas: Like cotton but more durable. Perfect for packs and bags.
- Rip Stop: Better than cotton for outdoor clothing.
- Vinyl: Better than canvas; but, is harder to work with.
The trick to vinyl is using binder clips instead of stick pins. Stick pins leave holes in the vinyl.
"Vinyl fabric is a durable, smooth, and thick, waterproof fabric with both indoor and outdoor applications. Woven in a basket-style weave, vinyl fabric is manufactured from synthetic polyvinyl chloride (PVC) fibers. Vinyl fabric is easy to clean and smooth to the touch, with a leather-like appearance and texture." from fabricwholesaledirect.com
Where to start?
The best place to start is to learn how to perform different stitches. In order to do that you will need a sewing machine. Sergers are super cool and make the best seams; however, it can't do everything. The primary machine you need is a sewing machine.
You will need tools to prepare the fabric for construction. A good pair of scissors is a must. A cutting wheel and mat are essential. I find preparing to sew to be harder than the sewing itself.
Practice
For each fabric, do the following:
- Cut a 10" by 10" Square:
- Fold it in half: Right to left with fold edge towards machine.
- Iron it flat:
- Sew a straight stitch : Put the right side pressure foot edge along the fold. Sew from top to bottom.
- Sew a zip zag stitch: Put the right side pressure foot edge along the straight stitch. Sew from top to bottom.
- Sew a bar tack stitch: Put the right side pressure foot edge along the zig zag stitch. Sew a few inches and stop.
- Serge off remainder: Flip the fabric. Use the straight stitch as a guide. Serge off the open side.
At the end of each sewing stitch:
- Stop before the end of the material
- Raise the pressure foot
- Advance the needle so it exits the fabric (manual dial rotate towards you)
- Pull the work product away from the machine (leaving a tail)
- Cut thread, pull tail back behind the machine
At the end of each serged overlock stitch:
- Drive off the material (leaving a tail)
- Raise the pressure foot
- Cut work product tail dwon to 1/2". Use loop turner to pull tail into the overlock stitch.
- Hold serge tail. Run machine and pull tail behind.
Equipment and Tools
- Machines:
- Tools:
- Starter Kit Includes: Taylors Tape, Scissors, Sewing Guage, Seam Ripper, Pin Cushin, and Pins.
- Fabric Cutter and Mat
- Fabrics:
- Notions:
Cotton Broadcloth Slub Twill Denim (8 oz) Soft Canvas Vinyl Snake Skin
Reference
What Is a Stitch?
A stitch is the fundamental unit of sewing that joins fabric, either temporarily or permanently. Stitches can be made by hand or by machine, and they vary based on purpose—construction, decoration, reinforcement, or finishing.
Stitch Comparison Table
| Stitch Type | Common Stitch | Purpose/Use Case |
|---|---|---|
| Construction | Straight Stitch | Basic seam construction, general sewing |
| Construction | Zigzag Stitch | For stretch seams, and joining stretch fabric |
| Construction | Overlock Stitch | Trims and binds edges in one pass (serger) |
| Temporary | Basting Stitch | Temporary holding, fitting, gathering |
| Temporary | Tacking Stitch | Temporary securing, hand-sewn alternative |
| Stretch | Stretch Stitch | Allows seams to stretch with the garment |
| Stretch | Coverstitch | Professional hem for stretchy garments |
| Edge Finishing | Zigzag Edge Stitch | Prevents fraying on raw edges |
| Edge Finishing | Blind Hem | Invisible hems on trousers and skirts |
| Decorative | Satin Stitch | Dense, smooth embroidery or decorative lines |
| Decorative | Embroidery Stitches | A variety of stitches for embellishment |
| Utility | Buttonhole Stitch | Creates buttonholes |
| Utility | Bar Tack | Reinforces areas of stress (pockets, belt loops) |
| Utility | Reinforcement Stitch | Secures ends of seams to prevent unraveling |
What Is Fabric?
Fabric is a textile material made by weaving, knitting, crocheting, bonding, or felting fibers together. It serves as the foundational material for clothing, upholstery, accessories, and countless other textile goods.
Fabrics are generally categorized by:
- Fiber type (natural or synthetic)
- Construction method (woven, knit, non-woven)
- Finish (dyed, printed, treated, etc.)
Fabric Types Overview
Natural Fabrics
Made from plant or animal sources.
- Cotton - Soft, breathable, plant-based.
- Linen - Crisp, cool, made from flax plant.
- Wool - Warm, insulating, from sheep.
- Silk - Smooth, luxurious, from silkworms.
Synthetic Fabrics
Chemically manufactured from petroleum products.
- Polyester - Durable, wrinkle-resistant.
- Nylon - Lightweight, strong.
- Acrylic - Wool-like, cheap alternative.
- Spandex (Lycra) - Stretchy, used in athleticwear.
Blended Fabrics
Combines two or more fibers to balance strengths and weaknesses.
- Poly-Cotton - Wrinkle resistance of polyester with softness of cotton.
- Wool-Nylon - Warmer and more durable than wool alone.
Fabric Comparison Table
| Fabric | Pros | Cons | Ideal Uses |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cotton | Soft, breathable, easy to sew | Wrinkles easily, shrinks | T-shirts, quilts, casual wear |
| Linen | Cool, highly breathable | Wrinkles easily, stiff | Summer clothes, home décor |
| Wool | Warm, moisture-wicking, insulating | Itchy for some, can shrink or felt | Coats, sweaters, winter wear |
| Silk | Smooth, shiny, luxurious | Expensive, delicate, needs special care | Formalwear, scarves, lingerie |
| Polyester | Durable, wrinkle-resistant, inexpensive | Less breathable, can feel plasticky | Activewear, upholstery, budget fashion |
| Nylon | Lightweight, strong, quick-drying | Not breathable, melts under high heat | Outerwear, swimwear, backpacks |
| Acrylic | Soft, warm, cheap alternative to wool | Pills easily, flammable | Sweaters, blankets, craft projects |
| Spandex | Super stretchy, resilient | Must be blended, difficult to sew alone | Sportswear, leggings, underwear |
| Rayon | Drapes well, soft like natural fibers | Wrinkles, shrinks, weak when wet | Dresses, blouses, linings |
| Blends | Balanced characteristics | Depends on composition | Everyday clothing, uniforms, upholstery |